Dub London:

Fashion, Music, Heritage

Inspired by the exhibition Dub London: Bassline of a City, the museum of London hosted an event celebrating Black fashion, music and how we can connect to personal heritage through these means. Museum of London curator Rianna Norbert-David and lecturer and creative Omolara Obanishola led the evening joined by an array of contributors including playwright, artist, curator and educator Michael McMillan, The event asked individuals to share thoughts, memories and personal histories whilst having the opportunity to view the Dub London display.

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An interview with curator Rianna Norbert-David

 

Why was Lover’s rock/dub/reggae scene important? How did it come about?

Lovers rock as a genre of music came about with the release of Louisa marks single ‘caught you in a lie’, the song was recorded after she won a talent competition at the age of 15. Caught you in a lie was the first lovers rock song. In terms of the scene, I would say that it was important because it was a self created and self sufficient scene completely independent of the mainstream, it was important to the first generation of British born young Black people as it provided them with the space to express themselves, establish personal identity and exercise freedoms. It is important to British history as a whole for these reasons and that it tells us much about the social and political history Britain at the time. 

What’s the difference between Lover’s rock/reggae/dub?

Lovers rock has always been described as a sub genre of reggae, Like to think of it as a style of reggae. Calling it a sub genre adds to the popular view that it was not as important as ‘real’ reggae. From a musical perspective the difference between all of these styles is their arrangement and composition.  

When you hear lovers rock what memory comes to mind? Where does it take you back to?

When I first started to really listen to lovers rock as a fan, I always felt a sense of nostalgia. I grew up on these sounds and this is what would be played around the house when I was a child but these aren’t the memories that come to mind. I feel nostalgic about the scene, about what the lyrics are saying. I listen to lovers rock and it takes me back to a time that I wasn’t even part of and that is partly why I knew that this was an important topic for me to research, because I really feel the music. The songs are about being young, growing up, love, loss and joy so anyone can relate. I listen to lovers rock now and I’m also thinking about the one that got away (!)

 

What is the direct correlation between style/fashion and music? Why is it important?

Part of my work is to find the correlation between styles, fashions and music so everyone makes their own meaning from what they see around them and what they are exposed to. I think it is more important or more interesting to think about the differences between style and fashion rather than the similarities, I think that throws up more interesting ideas. The relation to music is really about expression and particularly youth expression. 

Dub/reggae/lover’s rock has Caribbean roots and the majority of people in the scene are of Caribbean heritage- Omolara am I right in thinking that you have Nigerian heritage?  How did Lover’s rock become a part of your Mum’s life (yours)?

Yes, so my mum was born in London and was part of the scene growing up but our family are from Nigeria. Lovers rock was the music of her youth, but also a preference, in my research I look at the fact that my aunt was more into the soul scene but for mum it was roots reggae and lovers. Lovers rock was her music and I think whether you were from the Caribbean or Africa as a first generation black Britain you were going through the same experiences as your peers.

Looking at some of the similarities and differences between the experiences of Caribbean and African youth was really interesting though because there were differences in how you were raised, your experiences in the home and how you presented to your peers. I think it is fair to say the majority of the people in the scene were from the Caribbean but you had many African fans and English too. Now lovers rock is popular the world over and significantly in Japan. 

What is London specific about this scene/story? How did it end up being a London thing?


Lovers rock is a British born genre of reggae and it started in London, when we think of the significance of reggae music in the world and how many related genres of music have come from Jamaica for Britain to have created its own scene which flourished whilst having no mainstream support that is significant but it is important to note that it is not strictly a London thing. Club nights and soundsystems were flourishing in Leeds,  Birmingham and across the Midlands. But it started in London so a lot of the artists and biggest productions were concentrated there. When Jamican reggae artists would come to London to cut records they were largely coming to London.

What did people typically wear in the dub/reggae/lover’s rock scene and why? For ease of movement? Trends? Political and social?

This is what my research really aimed to explore and as you can imagine there are a number of reasons why people wear what they do on an individual and collective level. It was for all of these reasons that you mentioned but for ease my findings highlighted, the exposure to black history and figure heads . Seeing soul singers from the US, Bob Marley flashing his dreadlocks, televising of Alex Haley’s roots. The more young people became exposed to representations of blackness they more they became influenced, they were seeking identification. What you were able to wear on a practical level was a factor.. what could I manage to sneak out the house in to go undetected?!

Fashion and particular brands were influential, aspiration through dress was a big factor, who doesn’t want to forget the hardship of the week by going out at the weekend and turning heads. 

Aspiration and subversion have always held significance in black style, so wearing particular heritage brands or materials were about transforming styles by creating a look. Materials such as tweed, silk, wool and cashmere were about how they made the wearer feel, this also affects how you move and how you carry yourself. 

Omolara- what did your mum wear?

She was very much into the casual style, Fred Perry, ben Sherman, box pleat skirts, lace tights, diamond socks. It doesn’t evensong casual but if the outfit was casual enough to enable her to go out undetected or to go to a daytime event after church when she should have been in the library then that is something she would have worn! My mum still has elements of this style now, but a lot of consideration was given to what she could wear to ensure that she could keep her freedoms and go out whilst all fitting into the expectations of a Christian, Nigerian family. This isn’t something I’ve ever had to consider so again it was really interesting for me to consider.

To finish – could you each tell us about a favourite outfit you’ve worn or seen in your research? Why does it stand out in your memories/what does it mean to you?

Crocodile skin shoes, the shine, the gold tips, the click clacking sound when you walk, how they make the foot look long, seeing them in shops at Ridley road market when I was child, associating them with Nigerian men and big people business 

To Style a Life For Oneself: Researching Lovers Rock 

“This is a high quality original body of work that produces new knowledge in the field of fashion culture histories”.

- Michael McMillan & Dr. Sara Chong Kwan